Having worked at Cookstown Greens – the organic grower that supplies most of Toronto’s top restaurants with the likes of purple snow peas and lovage – David Haman has a profound passion for vegetables.

Which explains why his exceptionally popular west-side resto offers two parallel menus, one for flesh-eaters, the other geared toward the Birkenstock set. His all-veggie version of French onion soup is such a convincing recreation, it also appears on the carnivore card, as does cornbread crostini dressed with puréed squash and spicy apple compote (both $11).

Haman stuffs house-made agnolotti ($16 small/$23 large) with minced sweet spring peas and sauces them with a minty pine nut ragu. And though his oven-baked pies – tonight, smoky roasted tofu, parsnips and Swiss chard ($26) – are clearly smaller than when he first opened two years ago, they’re still large enough to guarantee leftovers, something almost every table goes home with.

Pavlova ($11) brings dinner to a dazzling close, an impossibly light hollowed-out meringue exploding with tart lemon custard and macerated cherries. Le Commensal et al, take note.

Dinner Tuesday to Sunday 5 to 11 pm. Closed Monday, holidays. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement.